If there were a "Most Affable SPAM Guy Award," it would most certainly be given to Matthew Scully, the chef at Matthew's (Mediterranean Cuisine, 1030 Third Avenue, NYC). Among Scully's imaginative dishes would be: an almond nut-crusted SPAM with pomegranates, served over vegetable couscous and dried fruit (suggested wine: dry white Riesling); a spiced SPAM with quince chutney, served with a toasted bulgar salad; and a SPAM foie gras with spiced honey and clementine, served with a julienne of endive sprinkled with clementine and hazelnuts (suggested wine: Pinot Noir or a Petite Sirah). For dessert with any of the above, Scully would serve a warm gallette of pineapple SPAM with anise-spice honey.

The ultimate SPAM brunch would be prepared by The Water Club (Contemporary American Cuisine, 500 East 30th St., NYC), according to executive chef, Brad Steelman. He would serve smoked SPAM and lobster home fries, poached eggs and ossetra of caviar. "You'll definitely need a Bloody Mary with this," Steelman added.

Meanwhile back at the New Lex Diner (Diner Cuisine, 155 East 55th St., NYC), head waiter Zafiris Niforos, doesn't know what the big deal is. "Why not serve SPAM?" he asks, "If we have it, we serve to everyone (sic); nothing special for the Russians."