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In Search of the
Perfect Hot Toddy

by Sarah Bragaw and Peter Cassell
(Page 3)

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Still in search of an actual Hot Toddy, we happened by Cafe Fledermaus in the South Street Seaport. It's in the older section of the seaport and is one of the few original businesses left there. 10 years old, it's owned and operated by Walter. He's from Vienna and though Cafe Fledermaus offers a large selection of coffee concoctions and a hot chocolate, "The Choc-OStroh," Walter recommended the "Gulhwein." So that's what we had. As his "Warm Up" menu reads it's a "Hot Mulled Red Wine." For $3.95 its got fruity red wine steeped (not boiled - boiling removes the alcohol and thus the point of the drink) with a touch of Stroh, clove, and cinnamon. The Stroh seems to be what makes this Gluhwein special. Stroh is a Spirit Rum made in Austria and apparently very popular there as a component of apres ski beverages. For the record, Walter makes his Irish Coffee with unsweetened whipped cream and adds a packet of brown sugar to the coffee. There was Jameson's on the bar. Overheard upon leaving Cafe Fledermaus: "Do you have any specialty coffees?"

We journeyed on to French Roast, thinking that this should be a specialty coffee spot if ever there was one. The owner, Kes, said yes they carried them but he also had a line of hot ciders that he created because customers asked for them. He lined them up. Cider simmered with cinnamon, cloves and orange is served on its own and with shots of spiced rum or calvados or applejack. All were bracing. The calvados cider Kes called "Norman Cider" was the most complex - the French apple spirit complementing the American sweet/tart cider. The bartender was moved to relate a story of growing up in Massachusetts and there always being a barrel of cider that would start to ferment after 2 or 3 weeks and would get heated up for the kids after sledding. Everyone at French Roast aimed to please and the food there has gotten some nice press. The chef, John, even promised to help out with a future "casserole" article. Of course, he was sampling the cider too.

Was Pauline right about the Hot Toddy? The dictionary, on the whole, agrees with her. So why don't the places we imbibed at offer them, and the many places we phoned and just stopped by at not specifically serve that drink? Don't know. Trade magazines seem to think that whiskey is coming back into vogue. But the Whiskey Bar doesn't serve Hot Toddies It seems that nowadays the idea of the Hot Toddy - that comfort factor - is very "Hot" and any warm alcoholic beverage will do the job. In today's vernacular Hot Toddy can mean Irish/Italian/Mexican coffees, Glogs, Glugs, ciders or even amazing Rainbow Holiday Cups. Stay warm and enjoy whatever the bartender recommends.